Our last night in Antigua we spent as guests in Brant’s Hostel as we no longer had Michelle.
It was going to be a hard adjustment to make. No freedom to travel as we chose. We’d be tied to schedules. We now have to stay in hotels and eat restuarant food!
In other words we’d just become ordinary tourists
We left early in the morning on a shuttle bus filled with happy, young backpackers for San Christobal.
There were two ex South African girls, now living in Australia. A young Israeli girl, a young Dutch couple, a British couple and a family from France.
We had lots of laughs. Luckily we’d learnt to adapt to anything that came our way and enjoyed ourselves too. Especially me who was able to relax and enjoy the scenery for a change!
Back at the La Mesilla border for the second time we had a surprise when we came out of immigration.
A Palomino the same as ours, but on the back of a Toyota!!
Was it there just to torment us?
We had to wait for our new transport to pick us up on the Mexican side of the border.
In San Christobal that evening we had to find a place to stay. The first hostel we tried was full. They recommended a few others to try. We’d already dragged our massive pile of luggage to the first hostel and had barely made it!
We asked if we could leave it all there until we found a place and set off by foot. We couldn’t find the first recommendation but fortunately the next place we tried was ideal and we booked in.
We fetched our luggage in a taxi and afterwards looked for a place to eat and get a much needed drink.
Will we ever adjust to this form of travel????
San Christobal is a lovely old city with many beautiful buildings. We were staying near to the Plaza so headed in that direction.
Looking for a restuarant that served regular food we ordered a very tasty schwarma and a salad, which we shared.
To celebrate, I had a cerveza and Solveig red wine and a bucket of ice, followed by wonderful cinnamon flavoured iced coffee…. A lovely end to our first day in Mexico! At Last!!
The next day we explored San Christobal.
The streets were filled with colourful people and musicians which all add to the soul of the city.
We checked out the bus options and found tickets to Mexico City on an overnight luxury bus. Expensive – about the same as flying – but we’d save on the hotel expense for the night!
We’d also been dying to try bus travel as an alternate method of getting around.
We enjoyed our stay in San Christobal for another three days before bussing out.
While there Solveig came out with a massive itchy rash all over her body. So off to see a doctor. The big surprise was the visit was free!! He diagnosed an allergy of sorts and also found she had hypertension which she’ll have to see to when home again.
We weren’t cooking for ourselves any longer and had to get used to eating out in the colourful restuarants.
So many amazing dishes to try…..We even found a favourtite treat of ours – Chorros – a crispy doughnut-like deepfried pastry, with a cinnamon and sugar coating. Yummy!
Haven’t had those since our last visit!
The bus left in the evening and was almost in Mexico City by the time we awoke.
It was a pleasure for me to just relax and watch the countryside pass by even though we weren’t able to stop on the way.
I’d found a weekend special on Booking.com for a Howard Johnson hotel in the centre of Mexico City and we took a controlled fare taxi from the bus terminal. We were amazed at the absence of traffic from the centre of the city (other than public transport, commercial vehicles and taxis). It was so much quieter than the previous times we’d been there.
Considering that it’s the largest city in the world it’s a miracle. The controlling of which vehicles may enter the city, and when they may, really works.
It was great to be back again. I’m sorry Sue, but Mexico City must take the prize for being our favourite city in Mexico with its many parks and historic buildings.
We returned to the Grand Hotel near the Zócalo where we’d stayed before. The Zócalo is the main Plaza of the city and has been since the Aztecs.
We enjoyed returning to all our favourite sites using the topless city tour bus.
But our stay was dampened somewhat by Solveig not being fully recovered yet. We took the intercity bus through the beautiful countryside once again in comfortable luxury to San Luis Potisi, our next stop.
San Luis Potisi, Gisela’s home town…..She married our nephew Ryan. We were sorry we hadn’t attended their wedding there 5 years before…..
We spent a few days staying with Gisela’s parents, Juan Luis and Carmen.
Coco, her aunt and Sissi her sister also accompanied us while we were being royally treated.
What wonderful hosts they all were. We’re so glad we’d made the decision to include San Luis Potisi.
A highlight was our day trip to the hacienda where Ryan and Gisela were married. A Christening was taking place there and luckily we were included on the guest list! Juan Luis and Solveig at the Hacienda…
So we got a taste of what the wedding might have been like. What a party!
We also visited an old mining town outside of San Luis Potisi .
When we sadly had to say goodbye to our generous hosts, we undertook an 18 hour journey to Houston in USA in another overnight (and all day) bus trip.
Our thoughts on bussing ?
A comfortable way to travel offering an alternative to flying. The cost is much the same; it takes a lot longer; you don’t see that much on the ground as much of the time we travelled was at night; during the day we never stopped anywhere half decent, only service stations. Not a suitable way to overland. Renting a car and staying in the same accommodation as we did would have been a far better option. We’d give it a try in the USA.
Our final thoughts on our stay in Mexico were that the experience would have been so much better in Michelle. We had been so looking forward to that. It was to have been the highlight of our entire journey. But that wasn’t to be unfortunately.
But we’d done it very differently and still had a great time there. Thanks to the wonderful people that made us so welcome.
As the impact of being turned away at the border sank in, we were devastated.
We examined the options…..
1. We could try again at a different border. Maybe it was the official that didn’t understand our documents.
2. We could ship the camper to USA.
3. We could forge the papers required.
4. Or sell the camper in Guatemala.
We drove back to Panajachel.The rain had stopped and we made better time.
We still arrived at the lake after dark but fortunately knew where to go.
In the morning we met a couple camping there too. Richie and Leeza. A young couple from the USA travelling in Central America. We told them of our problem. They suggested we alter our vehicle’s title papers.
We just couldn’t afford to take this chance. If things went wrong the consequences were unimaginable – it was also against our principles – and we decided to make another attempt at getting into Mexico.
The next day we left for the Tucan Uman and Hidalgo border for another attempt.
This time a very decent Mexican customs official who could speak English gave us the full story. We were not going to get through with the papers we had. He suggested the only solution would be to sell the vehicle in Guatemala.
So we returned to Antigua where we felt we had a better chance in getting a solution to our dilemma. Back to the Tourist Police campsite.
We were overjoyed to meet Andre and Monique there. The Belgians we’d met on the ferry. So much had taken place since then! A new couple from France were there too.
Everybody had so much advice for us, it was confusing.
The police commissioner at the camp knew of somebody at a different border who had a contact in the Mexican customs that could fix our papers for $300.
After much deliberation we decided to try and sell the camper in Guatemala. It felt like the best solution for us. We felt comfortable with that.
We needed to inform Sue and Pieter of our problem as the car was registered in his name. So we went to the Rainbow Cafe where we had spent a lot of time on our previous visit to Antigua.
We were definitely being looked after. Someone there informed us of a local advertising site on Facebook that sold everything you could imagine. He was a young British visitor that had arrived in Antigua to learn Spanish 8 years before. Fell in love with the country, and a lucky lady, then never returned to England.
Oh boy did we meet amazing people!
Solveig made contact and we posted details and a few photographs of the camper on the site.
Back to the campsite to await replies.
More surprises awaited us there.
Richie and Leeza had returned from their short trip to the Atlantic and the towns of Livingston and Rio Dulce.
The Brazilian writers, Roy and Michelle, who we’d met in Panama had also arrived!
It was like the final act in a play with all the characters appearing on the stage! With so many good vibes around we must be successful!
Was this another good omen? Volcan Fuego which had erupted recently was smoking again!
We had three enquiries by the next day!! ONE WAS POSITIVE!
The camper was purchased by Brant who owned a Hostel in Antigua and Jan. They were opening a campsite on the coast. The camper was needed for alternate accomodation and the van for transport to and from the coast.
A sad moment for us as the camper was dismantled for storage until they were ready to take it to the coast.
We had sooo many memories of the wonderful time we’d spent in Michelle on the most fantastic journey we’d undertaken.
We looked into the various options that lay before us completing our fairytale journey.
We chose to take a shuttle bus to San Christobal in Mexico and then a luxury bus to Houston. At least we would be able to say we’d gone overland all the way.
We looked forward to continuing our adventure and booked our places on a shuttle.
After another easy border crossing we headed for Antigua having decided not to stay over in Guatemala City. However we stopped for coffee at a Gallery on the outskirts. Amazing contemporary furniture was on display in many of the galleries and shops.
At the coffee shop there was a deli section that sold imported foods and sauces that also sold Appletiser and Grapetiser!
When we left the gallery I had trouble getting the car into gear. The clutch wasn’t working as it should. Back on the freeway the traffic was terrible. It took over an hour to bypass Gautemala City. The difficulty I was having with the gears didn’t help either.
By the time we arrived in Antigua there was no clutch at all. We camped at the Tourist Police parking lot. It was amongst ruins left by an earthquake. And it was free!
The police were friendly and very helpful. They gave me the contact details of a garage that could repair the clutch. It was Friday so we had to wait until Monday before seeing them.
Fortunately we were staying on the edge of the town and could walk everywhere.
The timing of our visit couldn’t have been better.
The biggest festival of it kind in the whole of Latin America was being held in Antigua that weekend.
The streets were decorated with dyed sawdust forming beautiful patterns and combined with corn, greenery and flowers.
Jacarandas in full bloom!
Something we’d noticed the whole way through South America was the wonderful display of Jacarandas and Bougainvilleas. And now here again in Guatemala.
The procession of floats, bands and people dressed in purple, walked over the decorations destroying them in the process.
So much hard work had gone into preparing them too.
On Monday the garage fetched the camper and took it in for diagnosis. They spent the whole day removing the gearbox and clutch assembly so we had to sleep in the garage that night! We were actually locked in between 6pm and 7 30am!
The next morning we received the quotation as the parts had to be brought in from Gautemala City. The problem lay in the master cylinder, but the clutch plate and flywheel were very badly worn and needed replacement too.
We spent another two nights sleeping in the garage while the work was carried out.
Luckily we were in Antigua, one of the prettiest cities we’d been in, with it’s colourful people and their wares.
We found a number a very good restuarants and coffee shops in town where we were able to connect to wifi.
The crafts were exceptionally good and Solveig found a stunning new jacket design. There was lots to keep us busy.
As soon as the car was ready we left Antigua for Lago Atitlan. The car was back to normal and it was a pleasure to drive. On the way we detoured to Iximche, the site of ancient Mayan ruins near Tecpan…
The decent to Lake Atitlan was terribly steep and passed through a small town, Solala, to Panajachel on the lake shore. We arrived as it was getting dark. Luckily there was a wonderful campsite right on the edge of the lake under trees.
The calm lake waters were also an ideal place for fishing.
We went into Panajachel in the morning to buy provisions and we could see immediately why the town had been a hippie favourite in the 70’s
Solveig bought some items from this Argentinian couple.
The town was filled with crafters on the sidewalks selling their crafts and the restuarants still had old hippies, that had returned to live here, reminiscing about the good old days.
A boat taxi service operated around the lake that locals used to get to their small villages that were otherwise cut off. We took the taxi to nearby Santa Cruz la Laguna…
The next day we awoke to find the weather had changed. As it looked like rain we headed off once again for the border, this time at La Mesilla. It was a long drive on mountain passes and through valleys so we stopped for the night in San Domingo near to the border.
The next morning we awoke, excited that we would be in Mexico in time for my birthday. 20 years before we’d celebrated my 50th there and it seemed fitting that we should celebrate my 70th there too.
But it was not to be !!! We went through imigration without a problem but were turned away when we tried to get a T.I.P. for the camper.
Even though we owned the vehicle it had not been transfered into my name. As it was registered in USA we could only do that there.
We had paperwork which had been drawn up by a lawyer in Argentina that got us through each of the eleven countries we gone through without a problem. But Mexico had different requirements for the tempory importing of vehicles we were informed by the customs officials.
With our tail between our legs we returned to Panajachel to decide what to do next…..!!
We were sad to leave Costa Rica but still had more countries to visit and time was getting shorter. We loved it so much and could very easily come back for a longer stay now that we have had a taste.
We were up early to leave and in two minds about what to do.
We’d pulled over to the side of the road to take pictures when the Belgians drove past and hooted. This made up our minds for us!
We had to pay to exit Costa Rica! And to enter Nicaragua, in US $.
We found the countryside to be very similar to Costa Rica. The roadsides were also similar, but with fewer small towns on the route.
We carried on all the way to Managua, the capitol. It was getting late. As we were in a city there was no chance of wildcamping.
We headed for a campsite indicated on our GPS map. It was dreadful! We decided we couldn’t possible pay to stay there, but rather book into something decent!
We’d passed what looked like a Motel and returned to it. The Colibrí Auto Motel. We were guided into the property by a night watchman and parked undercover and entered a huge dimly lit room. When our eyes adjusted to the low light the first thing we noticed was a huge bed, jacuzzi and a glass walled shower…..and mirrors everywhere…. including above the jacuzzi and bed!
A bell rang from a metal door in the wall. I opened it and there was our bill. I left the money and later found the receipt! No human contact. All very discrete!
There was this apparatus in the room. At first we thought it to be exercise equipment but then there was this chart on the wall that showed how it should be used……
There were no bedside lamps in the room so we couldn’t read that night !!!
Refreshed, the next day we were off Granada but stopped at Masaya on the way and found a lovely market with really good local crafts.
Something we’d seen so often on our trip is a Shoe Shiner
Another special Hispanic Colonial city with beautiful buildings and Plaza.
The city also had its quota of colourful buildings, galleries and eateries.
After a tasty lunch we left for Leon, the last town before the Honduras border.
We arrived at sunset and camped between some trucks at a garage.
There was nowhere we felt like staying so we returned to Leon and booked into a Motel. We wanted to freshen up before our trip through Honduras the next day.
Up early and on our way again. We had to cross two borders in one day as we’d heard and read so much bad news of the unsafe conditions in Honduras.
We’d decided not to take any chances and take the advice of those in the know and spend as little time there as possible.
The border crossing was no different to usual and the officials seemed to be the same as everywhere else.
The roads were perhaps a little more potholed and the people seem to be very poor.
We came across this colourful bus…
At a stop for coffee and something to eat we chatted to the staff running the restuarant and they were friendly. Then we continued to the second border, only 110kms from the first one. We’d chosen the narrowest part of the country to cross through.
Again we had no problems as we crossed into El Salvador.
We’ve often found negativity written about most of the countries we’ve been through. It’s been published in the travel guide books. In nearly every country you’re told to be careful about everything from pick pockets to hijackings.
One must not take unnecessary risks and do stupid things obviously. But our thoughts are that one has to experience the countries for oneself before making any judgement.
By avoiding big cities as we have – due to the inconvenience it would have caused us with the difficulty in finding suitable camping facilities in cities, and also taking the camper into busy streets – is probably the reason we found things to be pleasant and safe.
So I’m not about to bad mouth Honduras like others have. We didn’t have enough time there to make a fair appraisal.
Our first night we wild camped at a garage in San Miguel. A very poverty stricken and run down town. We didn’t stay there longer than necessary.
The next day we continued our journey and bypassed San Salvador, the capitol. Our route was through rustic villages.and beautiful countryside….
The properties had high walls with broken glass bottles on top of them to prevent easy entry. The roadside restaurants were behind strong security gates which were closed. Not very inviting for the tourist.
We eventually arrived in Santa Ana which had a lovely Plaza and church.
Santa Ana seemed to be so much better. I even found a cellphone shop that said they could repair my phone and I could get it back the next day.
The ladies were dressed in colourful aprons and the men all wore cowboy hats. We had lunch in a lovely courtyard
That night we booked into another Auto Motel! This time no jacuzzi but a mirror above the bed and a soft red light was the only illumination.
As someone later said, at least we knew the linen had been changed and the facilities were all disinfected and spotlessly clean!!
The proprietors were friendly ladies and realised we only wanted a room to sleep in!
The following day we fetched my cell. It had not been repaired. I decided to leave it until our return home and battle on charging the battery externally.
We headed for the border, paid $20 taxes and left without any problems for Guatemala and the Myan ruins, crafts and culture…….
We’re here at last. Costa Rica’s been on my bucket list. I hope it proves to be as special as the places visited recently.
The roads were bumpy and not up to South American standards. The vegetation was jungle like so we expected to see more birds and wildlife than we’d been seeing. A unique feature of the land are the “Living Fences” found on the roadside. The soil is so fertile and the growing conditions so good that fence poles sprout life!
We stopped at a coffee shop at a small centre in lush surroundings and asked for the usual maps and information about campsites. A lady who not only spoke English, but was from USA, was so helpful and excited to meet us so far from home. She showered us with information and guided us to a nearby palm covered beach,
Playa Hermosa, which we might never have found without her directions.
It was paradise.
A small palm filled bay with good waves for surfers and two blow holes!
We wild camped next to a Mexican and his girlfriend from Barcelona
They were staying in an old Kombi.
She made macrame jewellery. We struck up a friendship even though we could have been their grandparents! Wild camping is an amazing equaliser!
Some picnickers had left a smoldering stump on the on the beach.
We used it to braai our meat and bake sweet potato which we enjoyed with fresh salad.
It was incredibly hot and humid so we had a cold shower using the public beach shower to try cool off
but still had an uncomfortable night’s sleep.
The next morning I (Ian) awoke with a raging fever and headache. Joints were aching and I was feeling very liverish. The last time I’d felt like this was many years before when I had malaria.
Our Mexican neighbour was convinced it was Dengue fever which is common in Central America and displays similar symptoms to malaria.
He brought freshly gathered coconuts and cut off their ends and instructed me to have the coconut water from one coconut, three times a day for three days. The water or milk contains electrolytes which will help the body fight the fever when accompanied by lots of tropical fruit and fluids. I also took paracetamol and slept the whole day.
The neighbours left during the day and it looked as though we might be the only campers left. We were anxious about staying alone with me running such a high fever and as difficult as it was for me to drive, we left the beach and drove to a nearby filling station where we spent the night.
The following day we moved a few kilometers further up the coast to Dominicalito Beach. A small town with shops, banks, doctors and all the facilities we might need if my fever worsened.
There we found a hostel, Tortilla Flats, and booked in thinking that it would be cooler and more comfortable. It didn’t have aircon but the management supplied two fans to cool the room.
I was delirious, tearful and feeling sorry for myself. I slept the whole day and night.
But the room wasn’t comfortable. As there was a light breeze from the sea we moved Michelle onto the beach in the shade of palms. Much cooler and more comfortable, I slept all day again.
While Solveig explored the stalls…..
She bought a macrame bangle with a stone mounted in it from a stall holder.
Solveig met a lady named Katya, had coffee with her and chatted for over an hour. Katya was writing a book on how to cope with a family member who had Altzheimers.
The next day my fever wasn’t as severe but the hot and humid weather persisted.
Later that day we decided to move to the Altantic coast on the drier side of the country. The road was very good as we passed through beautiful dense forest.
But once reaching higher ground we encountered a heavy downpour of tropical rain, mountain passes and lots of slow trucks! I drove carefully and slowly, feeling rotten again as evening approached.
It was still raining and had started getting dark when we pulled over next to a country restaurant. We wild camped for the night accompanied by loud music and laughter until 4:00 am but still managed some sleep.
Once over the mountain range and heading for the coast the weather improved. We soon reached Limon, an unattractive port city on the Atlantic coast. Fortunately we were going further down the coast to Puerto Vieja de Talamanca near to the Panama border. One of the finest surfing beaches in Costa Rica. We had found paradise once again!
My fever was almost over, but I still felt nauseous and my body ached.
Puerto Vieja was a lovely small town stretching along the coast for miles with lots of craft and gift shops, restaurants, coffee shops and pubs. Not a highrise in sight. The town was filled with youngsters and surfers. We had coffee and something to eat, and met many friendly people. Including an ex South African from J-Bay, Lupie, who had actually won the lotto and moved here a few years before never needing to work again! We also met a Zimbo now living in Australia.
We wild camped further along the coast at Playa Chiquita where there was a surf school operating from the beach.
I also found a cell phone repair shop. My phone hadn’t worked since getting wine all over it in Argentina. They never had the parts but sold me an external battery charger. The battery had to be removed to be charged. It was very slow but it worked!!
While waiting for my cell I sat in a coffee shop while Solveig explored the town. I got talking to a girl from Austria, Borjana, that was a Bosnian refugee. She told of how the country had gone to war, the fighting taking place between the various ethnic and religious groupings in her country. Her family consisted of 4 different religious backgrounds which were now all enemies!
We were told that it was very unsafe to camp where we had the night before, so we moved to Camp Maria on the Black Beach.
So called because of the black volcanic sand.
We had a kitchen, shower and toilet but no electricity because of a storm that night. We left early the next morning and returned to Puerto Viejo for another day of chilling. We parked safely on the beach in front of a police station that night!
We left the Atlantic coast for the mountains again in seach of Quaker desendants who were also cheese makers. The village of Monteverde which is in a mountain cloud forest was up a steep gravel road of about 40kms in poor condition. The village was filled with young thrillseekers who were there to pursue attractions like rock climbing, zip lining, canopee tours, hiking etc. There were the usual gift shops, restaurants and a butterfly gallery too. Everything was grossly overpriced and we never found the cheesemakers!
We decended the gravel road and thought we might find camping at Puntarenas, a long sandpit peninsula from where a ferry departs for the Nicoya peninsula.
We chose to drive to Nicoya instead of taking the ferry as it wasn’t too far. On the way we travelled though beautiful countryside and spotted these pendulous nests with one of the inhabitants..
We eventually arrived at Playa Coco, a stunning small coastal town. We met a bunch of tourists from US at a beachside pub.
They suggested a place whete we could wildcamp further down the beach. But on investigation we were not happy with the location or the bums that were hanging around so we returned to the village which had a very vibrant street vibe and parked in front of the police station…..
We read later in the iOverland blog that that a couple had been held at gunpoint and robbed a few weeks before where we had been advised to camp.
We had been wild camping for so long now that I know we had developed a sixth sence that gave us that uneasy feeling….. We were being looked after once again!!!
Cetainly not a coincidence…… Thank you providence.
We had almost two weeks until our ferry to Panama. The next day we set off towards the most northern part of South America and the Caribe as it is named.
We soon arrived in Barranquilla. Unknown to us the annual Carnaval was about to take place. Its a week long festival held 40 days before easter each year. Preparations were being made and many streets were closed off for the parades and stalls. The entire town was fully booked out. Everybody in a festive mood. There was nowhere for us to stay or even park. Not wanting to stay until the weekend carried on up the coast.
The road from Barranquilla to Santa Marta passes salt pans, mangroves and small villages with houses built on stilts.
The road is actually built on a sand spit and skirts the Cienaga de Santa Marta, a lagoon teeming with waterbirds.
We spent the night in a hotel in the area before continuing to a small town on the coast named Palamino.
We went through many small villages selling local crafts and products and stopped at a shop selling local crafted bags and wonderful coffee.
The area was close to the Northern most point in South America, with long beaches fringed with coconut palms.
We camped at a campsite for a change and enjoyed the warm Atlantic and the luxury of decent ablutions.
We could have stayed here for much
longer it was so relaxing but we needed to get the car serviced in Cartagena. On our return we stopped at Santa Marta to replenish our provisions.
The Ford dealership was excellent and we also had a few other things to be seen to besides the oil change.
After the service we tried to get a refill of propane as ours was running low. Not a chance! Colombia used the same cylinder as in SA and couldn’t refill either our Argentinian nor Chilean cylinders. We were informed that Panama used the same cylinder as Chile so it would have to wait.
Beautifully maintained old buildings, many of them restored into boutique hotels or restaurants.
And lots of street cafes
The streets were full of local crafts being sold on the pavements.
When we’d been to Bocagrande to book our ferry crossing at the travel agent we’d been impressed by area and returned there to explore. It was suituated on a long spit of sand crammed with restaurants, coffee shops, shopping centres, office blocks and hotels and a lovely long beach. The peninsula formed the bay in which yatch basins and the busy port were situated.
There we found a coffee shop, Juan Valdes, which served the best Colombian coffee and pastries and had a good free wifi connection. We spent many hours there over the next few days and got chatting to other patrons who seemed to be regulars. This is where we met Jane Chaplin. Solveig had admired her handcrafted colourful bag and asked where she had bought it. We’d seen similar bags to these all over Colombia, but not as lovely as this one.
She insisted that Solveig accepted it as a gift and wouldn’t take no as an answer.
We were told that we could camp for free at La Guito, a small lake at the end of Bocagrande. It was next to the Hilton Hotel.
We felt safe there too as it was regularly patrolled by police. You might wonder why we are always wild camping. It’s due to the lack of formal campsites generally in Colombia.
We went to Baru hoping to camp on the peninsula but our hopes were dashed by the unusually high spring tides cutting off the campsite from the rest of the peninsula.
While there we visited Playa Blanca but there was only tent camping on the beach which couldn’t he reached by the van.
We enjoyed most of the day there in paradise again!!!
We had to return to La Guito to camp for the last night before leaving Cartegena and met the Belgians there who were also making the ferry trip with us…….