The Okavango

Our route to the Caprivi took us up the panhandle on the western side of the Okavango Swamps. We weren’t in a hurry and wanted to make a few stops on the way.

For our first night we had chosen the Ngoma Island Lodge and Campsite . The description in the T4A book on Botswana and Veronica Roodt’s wonderful travel guides looked inviting. After 12 kms of sandy track with detours around washed away bridges we arrived at the camp.


A beautifully shaded camp on the edge of the swamp. The lodge was a number of en-suite tented huts on raised decks with a communal kitchen.


We were accomodated in a shaded campsite.


At 140 Pula per person it was the most expensive place we’d stayed at. No electricity, nor Internet.  But we enjoyed the setting so much, and we were on our own again, so peaceful…

We were sidetracked on our way to the Tsodilo Hills, a world heritage site, that has 4500 rock paintings in a 10sq.Km area created between AD 850 and AD1100. There are also numerous archaeological finds such as metal spearheads, pottery, glass beads, stone tools. The cliff faces  consist of 4 hills. Ledgend has it that they make up a family. Male, female, child and grandchild. Too good to miss! We’ll have to go there tomorrow!

On our travels we are often sidetracked.  We go where our fancy takes us…. We’d  seen signs every now and again advertising  Sepopa Swamp Stop Rest Camp. The final straw was getting a pamphlet handed to us at a Vetenarian check point.


We were hot and thirsty and and decided to  look in.

Next we’d found a shady riverside site and booked in for the night. It wasn’t even lunchtime!

We met up with Ziggie and Catrin again who we’d first seen in the CKGR at Piper Pan and again in Maun. We just spent the day chilling in the campsite and pool.

George approved of our choice. While travelling he has to lie on the seat in the back and doesn’t get to see much.


It’s amazing the difference water makes to nature.

Early the next morning we did visit Tsodilo Hills, but never stayed over.


The colours of the rocks were such a contrast to what we’d been used to seeing.

A storm was brewing on the way. We hoped it would develop and some rain would fall.

It’s so hot and dry everywhere.

At last the heavens opened and there was a short but heavy shower. The poor domestic animals, so desparate for water just stood in the middle of the road and drank from the puddles and wouldn’t move out of the way.

There are numerous placed to stay along the Okavango River part of the panhandle near the Namibian border . The well known Drotsky Cabins offer camping too, but we stayed at the Shakawe Lodge which has 10 campsites on the banks of the river in paradise.


The campsites were fully booked but we went to have a look anyway as we were there.  Imagine our surprise when we found Ziggie and Catrin there too. The campsites were large and they suggested we share theirs.


We made many new friends along the way. Always discussing where we’d been and what we’d seen, but we seldom discussed details of our future route as none of us really knew. Most, like us, had a vague plan only. This is one of the best things about the way we travel.

Having said that, we knew definitely where we were going for Christmas Eve and Christmas day, Solveig’s birthday….

We’d been invited to stay at N’gepi by the owner, Mark Adcock. We’d become good friends since meeting him on our Cape Town to Oslo atempt in 2014. More about that later….

Author: Ian & Solveig's Overland Adventures

Although we never achieved our original goal of reaching Norway overland through Africa, our experience was so unexpectedly rewarding that we've not been able to settled down again! So we added new destinations to our lust for adventure. We hope that you will join us in sharing new exciting places and encounters with the amazing people we meet along the way.

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