Zambia revisited

We never expected to return to Zambia, but nevertheless were looking forward to the new route with its new experiences.

About 330 kilometers or 4 hours from the border to our overnight destination, Kapishya Hot Springs campsite, in the north of Zambia. We set off without further delay.


Many overlanders had raved about Kapishya. A pity that we could only spend one night there.

We could have spent the whole day in the pool. The 39 degree temperature was like a hot bath that never got cold!

Met Mark, the owner of Kapishya, and his wife Mel.
Mark is the grandson of the founder of Shiwa Ng’andu Estate where the hot springs are located.


We had supper at the pub restaurant and spent an interesting evening chatting with Mark about the history of the Manor House. We also heard about the many overlanders that have stayed there including the controversial Kingsley Holgate who distributes mosquito nets throughout Africa. So many ill informed people condemn him for doing that. They say the nets are used to wipe out fish. What rubbish! The lives of thousands of children are saved each year by them not contracting malaria.


Shiwa Ng’andu Manor House has become well known through the best-selling book “The Africa House.”
It’s an English manor house, set on the Shiwa Ng’andu estate.


Complete with red-brick gatehouse, clay-tiled roofed workers’ cottages, a long approach avenue, formal gardens


Livestock, a lake, wild game and even its own chapel! Solveig was thrilled to find pigs there too.

The house is an extraordinary testament to the determination of its founder, Sir Stewart Gore-Browne, and is filled with memorabilia and historical records. The detour of 40 kms from the highway to Shiwa Ng’andu on gravel was definately worth it. A must do visit for anyone passing this way. Stay for at least 3 days.

560 kilometers to our next overnight stop, Forest Inn campsite. We met Paul who also chatted about travellers that had stayed at Forest Inn on their way to various wonderful places in Northern Zambia including North Luangwa game reserve. We have just got to come back one day to explore them for ourselves.

The next day we stopped at Frigilla near Lusaka and had delicious pies for lunch.

They too had a basin to wash your hands before and after eating.

Bought 2 litres of Wild Honey on the roadside. Ginty, my cousin from Lusaka, does this when in the area. We stopped in Lusaka for diesel and a few things then continued to The Moorings.
We have often passed by the Moorings and not stayed there because we had arrived too early while on our way to or back from Lusaka. We’re glad to have camped there this and time will in future try to include a stopover there.
Another day over having travelled 450 kilometers in six hours.

A great pity we were rushing and not able to enjoy more of the new route with all it had to offer. Zambia has to be one of our favourite countries we visited. So much to offer the tourist. It’s reasonably priced, and the people are so warm and friendly. We’ll be back!

Only one more day left in Zambia! Had lunch in Livingstone and tried to contact Tickey without success. We had to arrange where to meet up with them.
Only 200 kilometers to Katima Mulilo, but we remembered the previous time on that road with its terrible potholes!
We knew it would take long to reach the border. To help pass the time on our slow, careful drive, we played very loud music while Solveig shouted out “pothole on left, pothole on right” to guide me through. It was fun and time passed quickly.
There was a Land Cruiser on my tail the whole way and I wished it would pass, but he was carefully following my path through the potholes and obviously did not want to lead the way.

The date was Friday 13th. Full moon. As we crossed the Zambezi bridge to the border post the sun was setting over the river on our right, while the full moon was rising out of the river on the left. Stunning!!!
We were hurring to get to the border before it closed and couldn’t stop to take pictures! What a disappointment!

We were processed on the Zambian side in record time! The gates to Namibia were being locked by the border police when we got to the other side! We couldn’t get into Namibia! So we had to spend the night in no man’s land!


We met the occupants of the Land Cruiser in no man’s land. John and Tickey Rutherfoord. They too had not made it through.

A string of coincidents were to follow….
The Rutherfoord’s were ex South Africans living in Australia, back for their daughters wedding, and doing some overlanding while in Africa. They asked where we were from. We answered. Said their niece had lived in Gordon’s Bay before moving to Dar-es-Salaam. It had to be Kerry Livito!!! What a small world.

We couldn’t leave our car with Hilton and Kerry while in Zanzibar…..They were at a wedding in Gauteng! The same wedding!

The Rutherfoord’s were driving a Bushlore Toyota CruCam with a pop up roof. Exactly the same as the one I had enquired about.

If I decide to buy one from Bushlore I wonder whether it will be this same vehicle? Probably!

We had breakfast in Katima Mulilo and tried to contact Keith and Ticks again. We left a message and departed for Camp Chobe where we’d stayed before with Max, hoping to meet them there.


We met them at the entrance to Camp Chobe.


Max was out for the day with clients so we continued on into Botswana…..

Author: Ian & Solveig's Overland Adventures

Although we never achieved our original goal of reaching Norway overland through Africa, our experience was so unexpectedly rewarding that we've not been able to settled down again! So we added new destinations to our lust for adventure. We hope that you will join us in sharing new exciting places and encounters with the amazing people we meet along the way.

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