The Caprivi

On the tar road again.  Wonderful, beautiful scenery en route. Stopped for lunch on roadside – chicken jaffels – sooo good!! It’s amazing what you can create with not much (ok so we did have mayo, sweet chilli sauce salt and pepper.



Garden of Eden

Late afternoon we arrived in the “Garden of Eden” – N’gepi on the banks of the Kavango river. Wow, thank you the Zouties ….
and John and Lynn Rich!!

Loved all signage on the way in – 2 × 4 route for Landies!  We used those!!


Creative riverside ablutions

OMG! The Royal Throne – toilet with view, Fish Eagle bath overlooking the river……..


Crocodile proof swimming pool

Floating swimming pool built with wire mesh to keep out the crocs.


Coffee anyone?

Sign – no urinating while swimming, could be in your coffee next time!

Deck over river – decor made with mokoros – tables, bookcases,  bar counter etc.  


Musical instruments hanging up in centre of ceiling,  drums, piano accordion,  saxophone, trumpet, African marimba, African string instrument. Ian thought he had arrived in heaven!!


Next day up early to rooibos tea – thank you Ian. Moved to better site with solar electricity nearby. We are now plugging in both fridge and freezer. The whole camp is entirely run on solar power. The  hot water as well as the electricity.



Coffee at reception (free) and met owner Mark Adcock.  What a nice guy. Really connected with him. Spoke about rivers and the powerful impact of nature’s purest liquid. He took us around to show us toilets in nature, loo that has a chain when pulled the dung beetles arrive, the tree house and apple tree cut down in the Garden of Eden.  It truly is a Garden of Eden and magically laid out. Had dinner that night in dining room overlooking river. Rained!! Had shower in Holiday Inn bathroom!!!


Fish Eagle bath...

Yippee had a bath overlooking river. Never done that before – beautiful,  watching hippos on other side. I will never forget – imprinted!!
Rain off and on, so we spent the day photographing and chilling.  Read about birdman, Christopher, resident at N’gepi.  Highly highly knowledgeable on birds. Such a cool dude with little black plaits all over his head. Gave him an article in which he was written about. Ian very cleverly torn articles from our travel magazines which were relevant to our trip and as we leave areas those are tossed.


As I sat this morning on the banks of the Kavango river in N’gepi camp I wondered what makes a place special to one. Is it the hippos grunting, blowing out Water from their noses while greeting one another. Is it the birds flying off to start a new day, singing happily.  Or maybe the incredible view from Gordon’s Bay of the first morning light touching Table Mountain, whales breaching in the Bay, seals stretching themselves lazily on the surface of the sea. Or is it the inner peace all of this brings about……

Yesterday we asked Mark Adcock what brought him to N’gepi in 1965. He answered; “to fill his soul”

A South African from Pretoria, he came here then, and found not only unspoilt nature, but also found his soul. 25 years ago he returned and started N’gepi. He owned a construction company in Botswana and could have brought in bulldozers and flattened the place and put up a luxury hotel, but instead he recreated the Garden of Eden with a whimsical touch.


His creativity is found all over this Eden in the signage, the toilets, the showers, the the bath, the swimming pool! He has left his unique stamp on everything about N’gepi. And left nature as it was.

It was sad to leave N’Gepi but we eventually had to move on. We drove the long road through the Caprivi hoping to see Ellies but it was too wet to see any game.

Camp Kwando
Our next stop in the Caprivi, this time on the Kwando river.


Yet another beautiful campsite in the Caprivi with passion fruit vines covering the large trees in the camp. There was an abundance of fruit lying on the ground. We picked up the good ones, removed the pulp and froze it for adding to our yoghurt and muesli.


Kwando River

Still in the Caprivi, but another river…. This time the Chobe , untill next  time….

Author: Ian & Solveig's Overland Adventures

Although we never achieved our original goal of reaching Norway overland through Africa, our experience was so unexpectedly rewarding that we've not been able to settled down again! So we added new destinations to our lust for adventure. We hope that you will join us in sharing new exciting places and encounters with the amazing people we meet along the way.

4 thoughts on “The Caprivi”

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