Twyfelfontein Region. 25 to 28 February

A beautiful morning in Khorixas greeted us after an incredible thunderstorm the night before. We are so pleased with our storm arrangements which work so well.
A detour off our planned route took us to Vingerklip, about 75 kms to the east.

It was worth the extra distance because of the beautiful landscape we encountered on way.


Vingerklip surroundings

We photographed Vingerklip which is the only remaining rock formation of its type in Namibia since “The Finger of God” collapsed a number of years ago. 



We had coffee at the Vingerklip Lodge and chatted to a young German couple touring Namibia in style while taking their gap year. How differently we did things when we were their age. Got married, had children…. But now we are free to travel.

The rain the night before had left its toll, the road to Twyfelfontein had many washaways and we had to progress carefully.  We  suddenly arrived at a river in flood!


Onlookers at river crossing

Three cars were stopped and the men were all looking at the river not knowing what to do. We decided to test the depth and Solveig walked through the flooding river to the cheering of the men on the bank.


Solveig testing depth by walking across

It was difficult going, her feet sticking in the mud and water up to her thighs. She got to the other side so I had no choice but to follow her in the car. I took it carefully and slowly in low range trying not to make waves. I didn’t want to test whether the car was waterproof or not!
The countryside was awash with fresh new grass and masses of yellow flowers.



A beautiful sight which rivals Namaqualand in spring.
It was almost dark when we arrived the at the flooding Aba-Huab river. Solveig was not keen to walk this one as it was very wide and muddy on the banks (which were churned up by an overland bus that had got stuck earlier).  Fortunately a safari driver who knew the area came along and crossed at a better crossing than the actual road, and we followed.
That night we camped on the banks of the river in the Aba-Huab campsite, under a thatch shelter. We thought we were in heaven, such luxury! Every creepy crawly and flying insect thought the shelter was a good place for them too . We were horrified the next morning when we found what had shared the shelter with us!
Again we met some German travellers who gave us their details and asked us to visit them in Germany. We’re meeting gsuch nice people everywhere.
The silence in the morning was in such contrast to the night before when the raging river had sounded like the sea. The river had disappeared!  They call them ephemeral rivers here.

Twyfelfontein area is a World Heritage Site and we’re not surprised. We started our explorations by going to the Organ pipes.


Organ pipes

We were surprised how different the rock was to everything else in the area. This rock formation was exposed by erosion in a river.

By visiting lodges for coffee at unusual places was well worth it from our contact with special people and also enjoying the luxuries reserved for the mega wealthy.  Twyfelfontein Lodge was no exception.


Rock paintings at Twyfelfontein

Set in amoungst huge rocks with the pathway to the lodge leading through them and past the rock paintings and etchings.

There we met the manager who gave us such useful information regarding the road to Palmwag, our next stop. We had a lovely long chat with a lady from head office doing an audit, then treated ourselves to a light lunch of toasted gammon, mustard and mayo sandwiches with a huge delicious salad with coffee.


While exploring we found Rock Agama lizards which we call Augrabies lizards there too!

We crossed the now dry Aba-Huab river and visited a campsite we had wanted to stay at the night before but were prevented from doing so by the flooded river. The owner remarked that you could tell the rains were good this summer as you couldn’t count the ribs of the cattle.

The road to Palmwag was hard going as there were many wash aways from the heavy rains the previous days. Sights and views on the way we’re amazing.


Beautiful dunes

The dunes and rocks are covered in grass, bushes and pretty flowers.

Then our most dreaded event occurred. We had a puncture! Luckily we had a tyre pressure monitor fitted to our tyres (thanks to advice from Andrew St. Pierre White) and were notified immediately there was a tyre pressure change. I stopped as fast as I could. The air was still escaping from the tyre and it was saved from certain shredding. Luckily this happened at a small settlement and we received plenty of willing helping hands to change the tyre. They were bushmen from Riemvasmaak near Kakamas in the Northern Cape.  Amazing, friendly and helpful people. At first we were a bit apprehensive by so many helpers – unfortunately as South Africans we have this ingrained suspicion – we gave the men some money for their help, a necklace for the lady and pencils and a pen for the young boy. They were so grateful and NOT begging,  such a difference from the Himbas and Ovambos who are always begging for money, food or water, just because we happen to be there.

I had the tyre repaired at Palmwag 70 nail biting kms later.  A sharp stone had cut the side wall so I needed a gater and tube. This brings back the question of what is the tyre correct pressure? They could  only repair it the next day, so we decided to book in for two nights. We were grateful to be at Palmwag. We had wraps with chicken mayo, left over roasted veggies and sweet chilli sauce. Our meals are never boring!

The camp is in an oasis…..


We were right on the banks of a small river. The ablutions had reed walls with an open front to the view.


Ablutions with a view

There was also a swimming pool, bar under thatch and a restaurant. The first night there was a light drizzle and it was cooler the next day so we never used the pool. Caught up with a bit of writing and editing of pictures.

Author: Ian & Solveig's Overland Adventures

Although we never achieved our original goal of reaching Norway overland through Africa, our experience was so unexpectedly rewarding that we've not been able to settled down again! So we added new destinations to our lust for adventure. We hope that you will join us in sharing new exciting places and encounters with the amazing people we meet along the way.

3 thoughts on “Twyfelfontein Region. 25 to 28 February”

  1. You both have the time of your life, so great 🙂
    I am happy that you meet so much German´s, this happens that you don´t forget Michael & me!!!
    Enjoy your time – I miss you!

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